What is the Purpose of HydroStream History &
This website strives to present historically accurate information to help educate
enthusiasts and preserve a legacy that could diminish and perish
over time. It also serves as a knowledge base for owners and
enthusiasts on the different models, setups, and care for these
What Happened to the HydroStream Registry?
The International HydroStream Registry was a database of hull, motor,
and setup information from owners around the U.S. and Canada.
It was intended to provide owners with information regarding other boats
similar to their own that would assist them in setting up a properly
running and safe boat, and it also tried to help the prospective buyer
of a HydroStream in determining what is necessary and desirable in
the rig they wish to pursue purchasing. Unfortunately, owners of
these types of boats change hands regularly making it extremely
difficult and time consuming to keep up with an ever-changing
listing. Because of that, the Registry stopped taking new members
and in 2010, the name changed to HydroStream History &
Performance which better reflects the goals of this website: to be
the number one source of information on the history and ownership of
HydroStream boats. In addition, a new HIN
Registry was formed in its place in order to allow owners to
register their boat ID's and help document how many of each model
were made and where they fit in the production run.
What can I do to help support this website?
Contributions in the way of articles,
pictures, new information, guest boats, etc. are extremely
Can you help me sell my boat?
No, so please don't ask me unless you are a recently widowed
owner of a boat you know nothing about! Use the resources
available to you online. Trader
Online and Scream
& Fly are good places to try.
I broke my boat's concave windshield. What can I
That and the next question below are easily the two most
asked questions. Basically, you have three options:
1) Buy a new one from the factory. You will take a big hit for
shipping with this option.
2) Buy a used one. Good and bad news about these windshields:
the good is that they made an awful lot of these and the concave
windshield is the same one used on all the models that had this type
of windshield (Viper, Vector, Viking, Vulture). The bad news
is that an awful lot of them have broken by now and they can be hard
to find. Watching the classifieds is your best bet as every
once in awhile one will show up.
3) Make your own. It's been done numerous times. If you
still have your original frame, and the old windshield as a pattern,
a new one can be bent to shape by carefully using heat. Or,
you can go for a completely new look and duplicate the old Sterling
Dominator's (a Vector splash) windshield. Many people find
this an especially good looking windshield (though not original if
that is important to you) and you shouldn't need to heat it to make
the bends, though you do need to be a little innovative as far as
making the attachments.
Should I remove the hook in my hull?
Sigh...such a controversial question and one that will
probably never be resolved to everyone's satisfaction. For
some background, that hook actually started out as a wedge, and you
should read my comments on it on the Vector
model page. If someone asks me if they should remove it, I
have to ride the fence because of the varied results people have
had. Some people have done it and say the boat will handle
better and be more stable. Others say they did it and lost speed and
the boat handled worse. You need to talk to others who have
done the work successfully and have the experience, weigh the
possible benefits and consequences, and make the decision
yourself. Better yet, go for a ride in one that has been
worked on and one that hasn't.
My aluminum rubrail is damaged. Can I
In a word, no. When these hulls were made, the aluminum
rubrail was riveted to the hull before the deck was put on. At
first, the transom area was left open while the rubrail was attached
forward of it. The deck was slid into place, and then the
rubrail was curled over the deck acting as a sort of clamp while the
whole hull was then turned over and the deck fiberglassed into
place. You get the picture in that to replace it with the
original rubrail, the deck needs to come off. Regarding a
damaged rubrail, sometimes it can be reshaped and sanded to bring it
back to life. If it's too far gone, another alternative is a
black vinyl rubrail that fits over the original. Check out
HydroStream enthusiast and frequent I.H.R. contributor Ron Pratt's article
regarding this option.
I've decided to look for a used HydroStream to
buy. What guidance can you give?
First thing is to read my article "Guideline
to Buying a Used HydroStream" in the Feature
Article Archives. Ask questions of other owners that have
the model you are interested in. Try to take test rides in the
different models. Each model has it's own pluses and minuses,
so you want to get one that fits your particular needs and
desires. Then keep a watch on the different classifieds
resources mentioned above. Above all else, remember
this: I would say the majority of HydroStreams - now mostly
old in age - have rotted cores and/or transoms. Be very
careful and check them out completely. Keep in mind that they
were once a high production boat and a lot of the workmanship was
inconsistent and shoddy.
I just bought a HydroStream
and at around 65 MPH it starts to rock from side to side. It's
hard to control and is quite scary. Why is it doing that and
what can I do to keep from having to back off the throttle?
Welcome to the world of high performance boating in a
V-bottom boat! What you are experiencing is called
chinewalking and it is a normal occurrence when reaching those
speeds and higher. Basically, the boat will raise up and ride
on its pad, and then it becomes a balancing act with your input as a
driver and a properly setup boat the key to taming it. Click
here to access an excellent page that discusses chinewalking in
detail and has some good tips on dealing with it on the BassBoat